My two favorite
places in California to visit are the wine country and the Redwood forest. The
beauty of the wine country changes with the seasons and there is no better way
to understand and appreciate the terroir of
a wine than to taste it in the land from which it was grown.
Muir Woods
I first became
enchanted by the Redwood forest when I visited Muir Woods when I was about 8
years old in the cub scouts and again when I went to the Avenue of the Giants
in northern California with my grandparents when I was in high school. These
enormous majestic trees have been around hundreds of years before I was born
and they will continue to be there for future generations long after I have
passed. Recently I had the urge to revisit the California Redwoods so on
Veterans Day weekend I took a leisurely stroll through Muir Woods. I arrived
when the park first opens before the tour busses show so I was able to take a
two-hour hike with very few people around. Muir Woods has a paved trail on the
valley floor with a number of bridges that cross the flowing stream as well as
several trails that take you up into the hills where you can view the valley
from the ridgeline.
Redwood Grove in EBRP
There is also
redwood grove in the East Bay Regional Park District, about 15 minutes from my
house, that I like to hike in from time to time. It’s a peaceful escape from
the hustle and bustle of the city without the tourists of the major state parks
and if I go there when it is raining I rarely see another soul on the trails. The
trees aren’t quite as large or as old as those in the state parks, but it’s a
great place to go for a hike, ride a bike and find some solitude.
Henry Cowell Redwoods
On the day after
Thanksgiving I visited two Redwood forests and a winery in the Santa Cruz
Mountains. It is the only place in California where the Redwoods and the Wine
Country are within the same vicinity. So you can easily take a hike amongst the
ancient giant trees and then visit a local winery to experience the uniqueness
of the Santa Cruz Mountain AVA.
My first stop was
at Henry Cowell Redwoods. I arrived when the park first opened and although it
was a beautiful cloudless sunny day it was around 50 degrees. Thankfully I had
enough foresight to wear a hooded sweatshirt. But by the end of the hike my
fingers were feeling a little numb and it was becoming difficult to push the
button on my camera. I took a leisurely stroll through the grove, stopping from
time to time to be in awe of the majesty of these towering giants and enjoy the
unique smell of the forest floor. I finished the hike around 11:30 AM which
gave me just enough time to head over to Hallcrest Vineyards which is only a
few minutes away.
Located on a
small hill above the town of Felton, the site of the winery was originally
established in the 1880s as a retreat for the Hall family. Then in 1941 San
Francisco business attorney Chaffee Hall planted White Riesling in the
Hallcrest Estate vineyard. He then built the winery in 1945 with the first
vintage released in 1946. At the time, Hallcrest was one of only three wineries
in the Santa Cruz Mountains and the only one producing varietal wines from
estate vineyards.
In 1987, John C. Schumacher
and his family bought the Hallcrest site which had been operating as Felton
Empire Winery since Chaffee Hall’s death. While visiting I was able to meet
John who was busy training an intern and preparing his tanks. He prefers to
refer to himself as a “wine shepherd” rather than a “winemaker” as he sees his
role is to guide the wine’s development to reflect the wine’s natural
reflection of the land, climate and vintage.
The winery and tasting room is located on Felton Empire Road
in simple wooden “A-frame” building. Surrounding the winery are old tanks,
wooden casks and a wooden deck with tables and umbrellas looking out over their
soon-to-be-planted vineyard. In
2004 the vineyard succumbed to Pierce’s Disease and had to be uprooted but there are
plans to replant the open field in front of the winery with Pinot Noir.
Until then, Hallcrest is producing small-lot wines from sourced
grapes from selected vineyards that represent the Santa Cruz Mountain AVA
(American Viticultural Area). They have nine Pinot Noirs on their list as well
as have Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah
and Zinfandel.
In 1989, John made a bold move and launched a second label
“The Organic Wineworks” with Hallcrest Vineyards becoming the first winery in
the nation to be allowed to label their wines “organically grown and
organically processed.” It uses organic production methods to make wine sourced
from organically grown grapes. The future estate vineyard is in the process of
becoming certified organic so that the wines will not be just “made with
organic grapes,” but made using totally organic winemaking methods, thus making
them 100% organic. Current organic wines include Pinot Noir from Mendocino,
Zinfandel from Lake County, Petite Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and a Rosé.
While visiting I
tasted the following wines:
My first pour was
the recently released 2009 Sauvignon Blanc – Belle Farms. Belle Farms Vineyard is a one and a
half acre vineyard in the eastern foothills of Watsonville which is owned and
cared for by Steve Remde. On the nose I picked up stone fruits, apricots, dried
peaches and white grapefruit and a hint of almost. On the palate it has a very
distinctive minerality, it is medium bodied and has medium (+) acidity and a
fairly lengthy finish. This Sauv Blanc is very different than most California
versions that tend to have more citrus components or, if grown in warm regions,
lean towards tropical fruits. This wine sells for $23.95 a bottle.
The second pour
was the 2010 Rosé, form the Organic Wineworks
line. It is made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and
has a very pronounced nose of strawberries, pomegranates and watermelons and it
explodes with flavor on the palate. This is no light-weight Rosé as it
medium (+) bodied with just a touch of sweetness. A surprisingly good wine for only $11.95.
The third wine
sample was the 2006 Pinot Noir – Vista Del Mar Vineyards. The
vineyard in Scotts Valley in the Santa Cruz Mountains, at approximately 470
elevation. Vista Del Mare is a small Pinot Noir vineyard with a coastal view as
evidenced by its name. It is owned by John and Dixie Rees, but Hallcrest
personally cultivates this privately owned vineyard. His wine displays classic
Santa Cruz Mountain Pinot characteristics – dark cherries, dense earthiness,
strawberries followed by plums and a hint of spice. On the palate it has very
soft tannins and medium (+) acidity. It is a wine that could never be mistaken
for warmer California regions such as Los Carneros, Santa Barbera or the
Russian River. If you’re familiar with and like great Santa Cruz Mountain
Pinots, such as David Bruce, then you’ll enjoy this one too. This wine sells
for $48 a bottle.
The fourth pour
was the 2007 Syrah – Clos de Jeannie. Named after the winemaker’s daughter, this wine displays vibrant cherries, plums,
pipe tobacco and a hint of herbs on the nose. On the palate it has medium
tannins and a medium (+) length finish. $21.95
The fifth wine
was the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon – Brigantino Vineyards. The vineyards are
located in Hollister in San Benito County and the grapes are organically grown.
This is the first time that I’ve had a wine from this region and I was
surprised that it was an ’06 as most wineries are releasing their ‘09s and ‘10s
in their tasting rooms. This wine is very earthy with underlying notes of black
currants, dried tobacco and oak. On the palate it ahs medium (+) tannins,
medium (+) acidity, it is full bodied and on the finish it has a heavy tobacco
and oaky finish. It has 14.2% alcohol but it fairly well balanced but would
probably be more appreciated if it had a steak to go with it. This wine sells
for $28 a bottle.
The final wine
was the 2008 Zenful Zin, California Zinfandel. The grapes for this wine were
harvested a bit late so it is an off-dry wine with distinct notes of dried
fruits, raisins, dates and maple syrup on the nose. On the palate it is full
bodied, round, soft with medium tannins and acidity with just a touch of
sweetness that is definitely delicious. If you know someone who only drinks
white wine because they don’t like tannin this would be a good alternative, it
would also pair well with spaghetti and meatballs. In fact, for $13.95 I bought
a bottle and mad it with exactly that two days later.
To visit or for
more information:
Hallcrest
Vineyards
The Organic Wine
Works
379 Felton Empire Road
Felton, CA 95018
Phone: 1-831-335-4441
After tasting at
Hallcrest Vineyards I headed north on Highway 9, which is a very scenic drive
through the Santa Cruz Mountains, and made my way to Big Basin Redwoods. There
are multiple trails to choose from on the valley floor and in the hills. I
wanted to get some good exercise so I chose the Sequoia Trail which steadily
takes you up into the hills and ends at Sempervirens Falls. It is about a 2
hour round trip hike and when you’re done you’ll feel like you’ve been on a
stair climber at the gym for a couple hours.
Big Basin Redwoods
There are many more forests and redwoods to choose form around the San Francisco Bay Area, the map below shows just some of the more well-known places to visit:

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